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Contents Foreword ________________________________________________ VIII Acknowledgements ________________________________________XII Preface ___________________________________________________ XIV PART 1 THE EARTH WON'T STAND STILL Birthdays at a mass grave __________________________________ 003 New lives and a new zest for living __________________________ 007 Healing in time ___________________________________________ 016 Time heals most wounds ___________________________________ 020 The power of persistence ___________________________________ 027 New homes and hopes amid tombstones _____________________ 035 'Hero Pig' saves the day ____________________________________ 039 The rebirth of hope ________________________________________ 044 Ghostly ruins _____________________________________________ 049 Drying tears ______________________________________________ 053 Trapped in time's shadow __________________________________ 061 'Quake tourism' saves survivors ____________________________ 064 Dealing with disability _____________________________________ 069 Solving survivors' intimate problems ________________________ 075 Rehabilitation advances recovery ____________________________ 078A fairy godmother story comes true _________________________ 084 A monk who saved lives and gave life _______________________ 088 Returning to Earth after 125 hours in hell _____________________ 090 A rogue excavator's epicenter restaurant _____________________ 093 A 'farm home happy' brings joy _____________________________ 097 'More beautiful than ever' __________________________________ 100 13 towns' lucky number comes up ___________________________ 106 A black-and-white issue of survival __________________________ 110 Legion's squeals are hell's warning bells _____________________ 115 Building resistance from the ground up ______________________ 118 Sichuan stays strong _______________________________________ 121 PART 2 CLOSER TO HEAVEN The knife, the night and the light ____________________________ 132 Illuminating the future _____________________________________ 140 A blurred moment of clarity ________________________________ 154 Far-flung but not far-fetched ________________________________ 163 Sharing an impossible smile ________________________________ 166 Facing the world without a mask ____________________________ 175 Smiling with the world ____________________________________ 184 Camping with herders _____________________________________ 193 Living like a nomad _______________________________________ 201 A good man from the badlands _____________________________ 210 Yak heads, mushrooms and bananas _________________________ 220 Beyond the big melt _______________________________________ 226 An oasis' lessons flow beyond the desert _____________________ 231The road to prosperity _____________________________________ 237 Road warriors' journey to the west __________________________ 248 PART 3 FROM POVERTY TO PROSPERITY A legend comes true _______________________________________ 260 A virtual world in a real village _____________________________ 265 Escaping 'old machete' _____________________________________ 268 The last road in China _____________________________________ 276 Solar-powered prosperity __________________________________ 283 Livestreaming farmers cultivate prosperity ___________________ 290 Love in a leprosy village ___________________________________ 299 Emus and nomads prowl Inner Mongolia ____________________ 306 Restoring fertility for men and deserts _______________________ 311 Serious potty talk _________________________________________ 315 Expect the unexpected in Tibet ______________________________ 317 PART 4 THE YANGTZE DIARIES A secret pact, Fool's Seeds and a golden bull __________________ 325 Building an engine of growth _______________________________ 330 Taihu's pearl shines anew __________________________________ 333 A shopping paradise comes true ____________________________ 339 Gut drones, livestreams and T. Rex __________________________ 343 Overcoming peak obstacles _________________________________ 349 Kiwifruit, firewater and big data ____________________________ 354 Postscript ________________________________________________ 362